Crag Information: - download pdf of bouldering
Information so far as at 19/1/2010
This is a great mini-crag with nice boulders below it. It was visited a bit in the late 80s by Larry Dixon, Al Stephens et al and early 90s by various climbers but due to the lack of crash pads and spotters, it fell out of favor. It is well worth a visit. Drive 6.3 km from the Golden Dog Hotel in Glenreagh, towards Grafton. Just after Boundary Road you can see the boulders about 100m off the road, on your right. Park somewhere opposite the long road barrier and walk 50m to boulders. It is on crown land.
There are only a few established problems so bring a wire brush, old rope etc if you want to create new ones (of which there is much potential). The most popular lines are on the boulders below the crag which tend to have more holds due to the strata. The crag itself has some nice, juggy traverses on the far right, lots of highball faces and aretes in the middle (generally with slopey topouts)and a few surprise nice problems on the far left. There are several crack lines scattered throughout. Landings tend to be pretty good although one or more pads are highly recommended. The area faces south west.
About five years ago (2005) Artie heard about the place through a local Ben Whittaker (lives in Nana Glen I think), and they started to clean up some problems. There appeared to be a few established lines that looked like they had been climbed on before, but we probably established around 30 new ones between Ben and I and a few others, with a good mix of short and steep through to high and scary. Ben called it Kremnos, due to the northern boundary being flanked by Kremnos creek. The rock tends to be a bit gritty with reasonable friction once it's been cleaned, but occasionally grainy and crumbly in places. Two problems I did that I think are worth trying are 1. the Kremonator, on the big tilted block in the middle of the area, sit start on the big hueco at the base of the overhang, and going through a couple of dynamic moves on angled edges on the steepest part of the face, and a slap to the lip. Ungraded, but probably V5 or something. Good sitstart problem to its left. 2. Have a Blow Boys, on the black granite looking boulder towards the north end of the area, up the middle of the wall on bad small edges. Again, ungraded, but V4/5 or something. Theres a problem on each side of this one which are both well worth doing as well. I'm pretty sure I did the FA of these two, they needed a fair bit of cleaning to make them possible. Then again, moss grows fast in that area...
The other area we discovered is across the other side of the valley from Kremnos/the scones/choose your own name - we called it Wessaide (I think we were listening to some gangsta rap the day we found it...). Unknown to us, this was actually private land, owned by a bloke named Dudley - I think Leon has his number. Apparently Dudley is not that approachable so it would be wise to gain permission and proceed with caution. There's only a few blocks up there, but these few are on quality stone, with a couple of the best problems I've seen in all of the Coffs area. The main boulder is a 20 degree overhang, with a range of small features, and three distinct lines side by side. Rhys's Problem on the left is unrepeated, and my problem Rumble on da Wessaide on the right hasn't seen a second ascent either. Both problems are on small holds, and are dynamic and powerful. The middle problem is a bit easier, Wessaide Dyno or White Love, can't remember which name we decided on, a great dyno through the middle of the wall to a tricky topout. Theres one or two other problems on that boulder, and a few on the adjacent one as well. This area sits under a cliffline with several caves and walls, and a few things really need some bolts. The rock in parts of that area is more compact than other areas, it might be worth exploring the bit of nature reserve to the north to see if theres anything else like it out there.
Comments By Brian And Arthur.
Sawtell / Boambee