Crag Information: - download pdf of fort knox

General


Main access is from the bottom.

See map on web in local area crags section. Total distance from Glenreagh (start) to bottom of Fort Knox is 9.5km. For GPS info the Elevation is 124m at S 30 02 029 E 153 02 231. From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Creek RD which crosses the river. Travel for 0.8 km to Railway line. Turn left after crossing railway line and follow road running parallel with the railway line before veering right into the scrub. The road starts off tar then to a windy dirt road. At 5km from the start you will cross a bridge over 'Middle Creek'. At 8km you will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road. At 9.1 km from the start, running off Athol Glen Rd , a gravelly road veers off and upish to the right (no gates). The turn off is distinctive in that it veers right rather than a right turn. It takes you to a sand mining plant. Finish here at 9.5km from Start. You can park here if you wish, and probably best, but you can drive across the other side of the sand pit (30m). Turn left on the other side and follow track for 50m or so. There's a track (4wd) that turns off to the right. Drive up this track 20m or so and park. Fort Know is straight ahead, in any case upwards. A 15min scramble will see you at Fort Knox . The track is becoming a little worn so look out for it. There a dry creek (maybe some water running after rain periods) that runs down on the left of Fort Knox . If you veer left as you walk up don't cross the creek but come back right a little.
 

Access from the top - May be blocked in the future. Preferred is the bottom access.

From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. This road takes you NW through Karangi, Coramba, and then Nana Glen. Turn right at Nana Glen past a primary School. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a railway bridge. Just before this bridge is a road on the left called Morrows rd. It runs parallel with the railway track. Follow Morrows Road for a few kilometers where it forks. Take the right across the railway line. The road becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd. Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood forest Road until you reach Emu Trl (Conglomerate Trail) on your left.
 

Wild Dog Wall and Fort Knox

 
Walk in from Emu Trl (Conglomerate Trail) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trl and Brush Trl. Pedestrian access to Fort Knox and Wild Dog climbing sites is via Get Lost and Brushy management trails.
 
Veer right down Get Lost Trl for approx. 0.5 km to its end. Walk left along top of crag for around 80 paces. Wild Dog Wall climbs are pretty well directly below, two tiers down. To go to fort Knox continue along top of crag to creek. Cross creek to orange wall.
 
Fort Knox is divided into areas, The Twilight Zone, Nials Roof, Alcove, Goodvibes Wall, Pooh Wall, Narcissus Roof.

Routes

The Twighlight Zone

 

When Twighlight Turns To Dark 15m 13

Follow crack up to top on natural gear.
J Gracie, T.Hill 7/7/96
 

Carnage At The Mousse Machine 12M 15

Crack to the right of WTTTD, follow crack to top on NP.
Tim Hill, Jeff Gracie - 7/7/96
 

Dr Farquars Space Age Sleeping Vessel 12m 14

Crack right of CATNN. Up crack and horizontal break to top out
J Gracie, Tim Hill - 8/7/96
 

Ouzzi Packing Drug Lords 12m 17

Up the wall to the top Natural Pro - Tim Hill, Jeff Gracie - July 96
 

Niles Roof 8m 24

Start in the middle of the roof and take the line of bolts that tends to go left. FA Unknown.
 

The Strong Room

 

Dicky Seat 7m 22

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.
Jeff Gracie - July 96
 

Black And White 8m 24

Line right of DS. Up wall to lower off
Jeff Gracie - July 96
 

Shane Of The Jungle 10m 23

the small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with sm pockets
Ben Christian - July 96
 

Jeff's Live Round 8m 21

3 hangers to chain - Unknown
 

Jeff’s Orange Barf 10m 24

Up the wall with 3 bolts to lower off.
Ben Christian - July 96
 

Spanking Monkeys 10m 19

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top
J. Langston 1/97
 

Homo Gordonis 12m 25

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.
Ben Christian - July 96
 

Missing Monkeys 16m 21

Without a doubt the most popular route on the cliff. A bit run out up high, 3 bolts to chain. Beware loose flake at top of crux. Gordon Lowe July 96
 

Hilti Hijachers 16M 16

Good fun. Great warm up.
Jeff Gracie, Tim Hill July 96.
 

Thin Red Line 12m 20 

3m right of Hilti Highjackers, on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall. 2 BRs 
Tristan Ricketts 2000
 

Magic Dick Sixteen * 15m 21

Right of HH. Past open book cnr and on the wall facing the other climbs, near tree. Classic, technical climbing. 3 bolts to lower off.
T. Walters 2/97
 

Agent Scully 15m 27

Climb the arete to chains
Unknown
 

Leaking Boy Beno 20m 25

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.
G. low 2/98
 

Alcove

 

Tims Vital Life Juice 15M 23

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 bolts to lower off. Ben Christian - July 96
 

White Man’s Voodoo 15m 26

Up wall past 4 bolts, hard moves at top.
Ben Christian - July 96
 

Laaabia 15m 27

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.
Ben Christian 3/97
 

Elders have Wisdom 20m 23

Potential deck out at the top. Up past 3 bolts, right and up to chain belay. M. Schmidt 1/97
 

The Malloy *** 20m 22

A tribute. Great moves, deceptively pumpy, left hand edge of ledge. 3m right of EHW, past 5 bolts, belay as for EHW.
Jeff Gracie. 3/97
 

Lewis The Crag Dog 20m 24

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 bolts to lower off
G. Low 6/97
 

Marty's Route 20m 25

Right of LTCD, straight up wall past bolts to lower off
Unknown
 

Wisdom of Youth 25m 23

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.
G. Low 3/97
 

Sex and Drugs on The Rock & Roll 25m 23

Simply great, power up past 7 bolts to chain.
G. Low 3/97
 

Kanoon 15m 25

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner to a huge move, before clipping the anchors out left. 4 bolts and a wire.
J Gracie 3/97
 

Poor Man On Bourbon Street * 15m 26

Start as for K, then tend right past more bolts to top out, rap of tree.
B. Christian 1/97
 

Bourbon Street Direct * 15m 26

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route. J. Scarborough 99
 

Narcissus Roof

This area is below the Alcove, to reach it walk straight down from the Alcove. Then down and right of the big block to the roof.
 

Narcissus Raining Down * 10m 21

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off
B. Christian 7/96
 

Goodvibes Wall

From the Alcove walk North (away from the other areas), 50m under a big roof, to a wall with slabs that becomes a roof. The first route is just left of the corner on the left of the wall. Climbs are described left to right.
 

Will of the Word 12m 23

Climb veres left. Follow BR line. Located left of Corkys Crack, where there once stood a mighty tree. Move left along a fingery crack, smearing feet. Finger lock, crossover smearing, two finger undercling pocket, all make this climb sweet & tough. Well worth the effort.
Bruce Jones 4/11/96
 

Corky's Crack 15m 15

Up the corner crack which finishes 5m below the top then head up easy wall (no pro) and belay off trees further back
B. Cork 2/97
 

Andy Goodvibes *** 18M 22

A must do slab with a cruxy roof. One of the most popular climbs. 5m right of CC, follow the line of fixed hangers to the lower off under the roof.
Jeff Gracie - July 96
 

Adventure in Retro Land 20m 22

5m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off.
B. Christian
 

Fashion Nugget 15m 22

The arete at the beginning of the roof 10m right of AIR, stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two, nice pockets up high.
G. Low 3/97
 

Rubik's Roof * 15m 27

14 moves to the lip, count em' if you want !!! Start in the cave 5m right of FN, stick clip the 2nd bolt, (the first is there for working), then crank out the roof and up the tricky wall to the lower off.
B. Christian 2/97
 

Allypop And The Ice-Man ** 15m 25

Hop ya like slopers!!! Steep and sustained, start at the right hand end of the roof up to 1st bolt then jug out left past 2nd, 3rd and 4th, power to chains.
G. Low 3/97

 

Pooh Wall

This is named after a famous animal character, not the famous poo dog. It is the slabby wall right of the descent gully at the end of Goodvibes Wall. Much potential still exists especially for beginners. There are many natural lines that have been done here but have not been recorded.
 

Christopher Robin: Toy Boy 10m 17

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.
Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

Piglet Gets Porked 10m 18

3 bolts, finish as per CRTB
Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

 

Pooh Gets A Dip In The Honey Pot 12m 19

1m right of P.  2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM
Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001
 

Tigger's Mark 12m 18

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings
Martin Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001

Eeor's Tail 12m 17 1m right of TM.

Natural Gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM
Martin Cloonan, Tristan Ricketts, 2001

2001 *Unknown* 12m 16?

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

The Enchanted Place 12m 16

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.
Tristan Ricketts, Paul Daniel, 2001

These are on the right hand section of Pooh Wall, after it steps out at the large tree:


Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting *** 14m 17

In the middle of the wall, great climb for beginners, up the wall past nicely spaced bolts to a lower off in the groove down right of the tree.
H Friedberg J. Gracie 3/97

In May 1998 Bruce Jones and Clarkson Walter did two or three natural routes 3 or 4 meters to the right of WTPGHH, around where there is a dish like depression half way up. Two of these routes were called "Paint Spot" and "Brush Stokes" and graded about 14.


Unnamed 14m 15

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six bolts (!) to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

 

Piglet Plays the Jugs 14m 14

8m right of WTPGHH. Start by reaching up to excellent jug, then up past 2BR. Use cams in breaks to protect top half of the climb and the traversing left to WTPGHH fixed hangers. Paul Daniel, Tristan Ricketts 2001

 

End of Routes
 
 

 

 

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