Crag Information: - download pdf of fun parlour

General

The Fun Parlour is not a big cliff, being only 8 to 10 meters high, but the lines, cracks and walls are fun especially the walls. The cliff is situated just out of Glenreagh, which is approximately half way (half an hour's drive) from Grafton and Coffs Harbour on the inland road parallel to the Pacific Highway

Access

About the middle of Glenreagh a road called Upper Corindi Road heads off across a bridge spanning the Orara river. Follow this across the railway line, then hard left to Middle Creek . The parking for Fun Parlour is 500m past the bridge over Middle Creek. Using the Woolgoolga map 9537-4-N, an estimate of the map reference is 013 786. The crag is the upper cliff line on the right of the road. The road is wider at this point due to a logging track on the left, and cars parking on the right side of the road. The crag is almost out of sight from the road. Face the crag. Walk approx 20 further east and you will find a track which winds its way some 80m up to Fun parlour. When you reach the crag you are near the left hand side. Climbs are listed from left to right as you face the cliff. History - Fun Parlour was found by Nymboida River Whitewater Rafting guide, Larry Dixon some time in the early eighties. In the summer of 1984, during a moment of weakness, his brother, "Dicko" agreed to see what climbing was all about and tied onto the end of the rope. They put up three routes that year, the best being COLD TAP 14, nearly melted in the process and then rushed back to the Golden Dog for some life-saving beers.The following year, 1985, Neil "Dicko" Dixon found that rock climbing interfered too much with his social life. As a result another Whitewater Rafting guide, Ian Allen, was talked into visiting the cliff. The result was two more new routes by Dixon, the best being WHIP IT 15.The first wall route, CHICKEN HEROES 18 by Al Stephens from Armidale, went up in 1986 along with seven other crack routes.The true potential of the Fun Parlour began to dawn on Dixon and Stephens in 1987 when they bolted the classic FUNNEL WEB 16 by Dixon and later, LONG TALL TEXAN 21 by Stephens. A total of eight new routes went up that year. Other visiting climbers that year were Richard Thomas (the long, tall Texan) and Mark Spence from Coffs Harbour.The year of the Bosch, 1988, resulted in five beautiful routes, the best being the Ramones inspired PLANET EARTH 19 by Dixon and QUASIMODO 18 by Stephens. Other visiting climbers involved in first ascents were Graham Stewart from Armidale Wade (Imageman) Fairly and Richard Falls from Tamworth. 1989 saw many visitors come and go and sixteen superb new routes being put up. Gavin (Coke) Dean, a climbing and abseiling instructor from Coffs Harbour, got very serious about new routes and, with a variety of seconds, put up twelve new ones, the best being THE RAW 21 and the infamous, almost impossible for some, RUM AND COKE 22. Other visitors during the winter were Neil Rabb and Mark Colyvan from Armidale, Karl Shultz from downtown Glenreagh and Davey and Tim Wood from Ulong.In 1990 Larry Dixon became more involved in developing his Whitewater Rafting business and temporarily retired from climbing. Dean, with Stephens and Wayne Anderson at various times, was involved in fourteen of the fifteen new routes put up during the year. The best being WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES 23 by Dean, the hardest route at Fun Parlour. Other climbers involved in first ascents were Tim (Tadpole) Balla, Patrick Thompson, Toldy Thompson and Tim Loughlin.Due to Gavin Dean's discovery of "Wonderland', another cliff in the same area, in 1991 Fun Parlour received very few visits and no new routes! But don't be put off by the lack of interest during this year, there are still some hard cracks some challenging aretes and many great walls waiting for your first ascent.

Routes

 

The routes are described from left to right as you face the cliff. The first route at the left hand end is YOU CAN'T TOUCH THIS 20, a prominent, short roof on a buttress separated from the main cliff line. You can see the roof as you walk up to the cliff from the road. Most climbs are, or can be, very well protected with natural protection, bolts or both. Grading climbs is very subjective and is intended in this guide to be an approximation of the difficulty.

 

You Cant Touch This 20

Onto the wall and up through the roof, 2 BR's, tree belay. Wayne Anderson, Gavin Dean, September 1990.

 

Rum And Coke 22

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 BR's, 2 bolt belay.G. Dean, A. Stephens, August 1989.

 

Deceiving Decisions 19

4m right of ' Rum and Coke'. A crack then wall with small iron hand holds, 3 BR's and wires.G. Dean, A. Stephens, July 1989.

 

Swinging Oldies 18

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 BR's.G. Dean, A. Stephens, July 1989.

 

Cosmic Energy 20

The arete, 2 BR's and 2 bolt belay.G. Dean, A. Stephens, August 1989

 

Fantasy And Fiction 18

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 BR's and 1 bolt plus tree belay.G. Dean, A. Stephens, August 1989.

 

Phantom Cockroaches 19

In the same alcove as FANTASY AND FICTION, 2m right. Don't use the block on the right hand side, you cheat! 1 BR plus #3.5 Friend.G. Dean, L. Dixon, Dave ?, July 1989.

 

Son Of A Beach 16

A jam crack left of the big overhand, up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.A. Stephens, L. Dixon, G Stewart, August 1987.

 

Room With A View 22

The obvious roof just right of SON OF A BEACH. 4 BR's and a small Friend down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees.A. Stephens, May 1988.

 

Shady Retreat 17

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 BR's. Beautiful!G. Dean, T. Loughlin, P Thompson, October 1989.

 

Steamer 17

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984.

 

Quasimodo 18

The black wall right of STEAMER. 3 BR's. A. Stephens, L. Dixon, May 1988.

 

Silver And Gold 22

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. Stephens, July 1989.

 

Ballroom Blitz 19

"Ready Steve, alright fellas, lets go......". The narrow wall 1m right of SILVER AND GOLD. Large Friend and 1 BR. A little contrived, don't bridge off the right hand wall. Techno and streno. (Sorry Ralph!)A. Stephens, M. Colyvan, L. Dixon, N. Crabb, August 1988.

 

Cable Layer 12

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.L. Dixon, A. Stephens, May 1988.

 

Planet Earth 19

A classic. The wall right of CABLE LAYER. Another Ramones inspired route. #4 Friend in cave and 2 BR's.L. Dixon, A. Stephens, May 1988.

 

Wasp 16

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.L. Dixon, M. Spence, October 1988.

 

Unknown Roughly a 20 or 21

 

Life's A Beach 17

 A steep jam crack, better than it looks, right of WASP.A. Stephens, L. Dixon, August 1987.

 

Sandy Sandshoes 18

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 BR's and #1.5 Friend.G. Dean, L. Dixon, July 1989.

 

Like A Virgin 11

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. We believe this was Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.N. Crabb, A. Stephens, May 1988.

 

Powered By Bosch 18

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to BR with FH. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to DBB. Rap off.Darrin Carter and Adam Donoghue - Jan 94

 

Chicken Heroes 18

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A #4 Friend about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire.A. Stephens, L. Dixon, August 1986.

 

Giblets 16

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.L. Dixon, A. Stephens, R. Thomas, July 1986.

 

Rags To Riches 20

The wall right of GIBLETS. Up steepening wall 3 BR's, belay with #1.5, #2.5 and #3 Friends. Superb.G. Dean, A. Stephens, L. Dixon, July 1990.

 

Flat Batteries 21

Totally excellent, a wall in a slight alcove right of RAGS TO RICHES. Up the wall with a bulge, 3 BR's, 2 bolt belay. Nice one Wayne!W. Anderson, K. Bennett, G. Dean, March 1990.

 

Light And Easy 20

Not so easy if you're not light! Between FLAT BATTERIES and the "Shower Recess" (I think!). A steep wall with a thin crack near the top. An absolute must. 4 BR's, 2 bolt belay. Just great!G. Dean, P. Thompson, T. Loughlin, T. Thompson, November 1989.

 

Steamy Windows 19

This route and the next half dozen are located around the "Shower Recess". The banana bolt near the ground looks hideous but it 'roolly' is good - it's a long bolt. One day I'll replace it. Up through bulge past banana bolt to an overhanging wall finish. 3 BR's and 2 bolt belay.A. Stephens, G. Dean, July 1990.

 

Don't Drop The Soap 17

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 BR plus small Friends and Rocks. 1 bolt plus tree belay.L. Dixon, A. Stephens, July 1990.

 

Luke Warm 10

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete, a #4 Friend in the picket then easily to top. A great beginners' route.L. Dixon, M. Spence, October 1986.

 

Cold Tap 14

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay.L. Dixon, N. (Dicko) Dixon, 1984.

 

Hot Tap 16

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.L. Dixon R. Thomas, A. Stephens, July 1986.

 

Just Add Water 13

On a low angle. Arete with one BR. Cruise up on jugs to top. Now should move to the right to DBB above next route.Darrin Carter and Adam Donoghue - Jan 94

 

Where's My Burrito 18

Up to horizontal break gear then up steep wall past one or two BR's.Darrin Carter and Adam Donoghue - Jan 94

 

Short And Sweet 22

The next wall past the "Shower Recess". Beautiful! Do it! Up bulging wall to top. 2 BR's.G. Dean, A. Stephens, July 1989.

 

Snowman 8

One of the first routs at this cliff by the dodey brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.L. (Pieman) Dixon, N. Dicko) Dixon, 1984.

 

Woman 8

A waste of space. No .. not woman .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.A. Stephens, L. Dixon, July 1986.

 

Confidence 12

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.G. Stewart A. Stephens, L. Dixon, August 1987.

 

Walt Disney's Picking Strawberries 23

The hardest route on the cliff so far. The obvious roof problem right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 BR's for pro. It's great!G. Dean, A. Stephens, July 1990.

 

Lambada 17

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small Friend and 2 BR's. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.A Stephens, G. Dean, July 1990.

 

Summer 22

This route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! I think it has 3 BR's but take an extra one in case I've got a bad memory.A. Stephens, G. Dean, October 1990.

 

Treeology 17

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.A Stephens, L. Dixon, August 1986.

 

Intreeg 20

Great fun. Superb moves. A couple of metres right of TREEOLOGY. Swing up the wall. 2 BR's and some natural pro.G. Dean, A. Stephens, October 1990.

 

The Golden Dog 17

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991. Let's hope they rebuild it. A good long route. A long diagonal crack to the cave over left then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.L. Dixon, A. Stephens, G. Stewart, September 1987.

 

Long, Tall Texan 21

Start as for THE GOLDEN DOG, into the cave then move right from the cave and up the steep wall past 2 BR's and a wire placement near the top. Strenuous and sustained. Tree belay. You need Friends and wires up to the cave, and a long sling.A. Stephens, G. Stewart, L. Dixon, September 187.

 

Whip It 15

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.L. Dixon, I Allen, 1985.

 

The Raw 21

One of the BEST on the cliff... A definite must do! A long, steep, slightly overhanging wall. Very sustained. 2 BR's and 2 fixed hangers. Double bolt belay.G. Dean, P. Thompson, September 1989.

 

And The Cooked 17

This goes up the wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 BR, #1 and #3 Friends, small wires.W. Anderson, G. Dean, September 1989.

 

Sandman 16

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls, L Dixon, August 1987.

 

Funnel Web 17

One of the best at this grade. Very popular. The first route to use bolts. Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish.L Dixon, A. Stephens, July 1987.

 

Pus In Boots 14

This and the next route are on a short section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.T. (Tadpole) Balla, L. Dixon, June 1989.

 

Boot The Puss 15

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past thread runner in roof, then cruise.L. Dixon, Davey, June 1989.

 

Shaky 12

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to topL. Dixon, I. Allen, 1985.

 

Sand Castles 14 – 17

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.G Stewart. A. Stephens, L. Dixon, August 1987.

 

Bacon And Eggs 18

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.G. Dean, W. Anderson, April 1990.

 

Bubble And Squeak 20

The shaded wall right of BACON AND EGGS. One of the best on the cliff. Love it...Love it...Love it! Up the steep wall with horizontal breaks. 2 BR's, 2 bolt belay. Oops, take a #3 Friend too.G. Dean W. Anderson April 1990

 

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road ad squash your car. We call it the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

 

Power And The Passion 21

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 BR's Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.G. Dean, A. Stephens, December 1990.

 

Gazebo 9

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.G. Dean, October 1990.

 

Wedding Cake Island 19

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 BR's to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.G. Dean, A. Stephens, October 1990.

 

I Don't Mind 19

Named in honor of the great Bob Geldoff. A wall/arete that steepens near the top. Avoid the heat of the afternoon. Great.A. Stephens, G Dean, October 1990.

 

 

End of Routes
 

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