Crag Information: - download pdf of Godzone

General


History - Larry Dixon, climber and raft guide from Ulong originally found and named the Gods Cliff (now called Godzone) some time in 1982. He so named the crag due to a large cross (crucifix) and altar we found under the large overhang. Later Gavin Dean and Al Stephens did two single pitch routes to the left of the large overhang but didn't record them - approx grade 16/17. Gavin also did some very short routes near the overhang. Not much was recorded since this time until 1996 when Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem, and Bruce Jones began putting up new routes in the area. There is still much potential and the following recorded routes are well worth the effort. Access - Take the Upper Corindi Road and head towards Middle Creek. A few kilometers out along the dirt you will come to a track on the right. As you drive down a slight hill there is a sharp right hand turn (4 o'clock) which heads up a steepish rough hill. Follow this track until you come to a large clearing at a creek. Park here. Track to climbs starts over the other side of the creek. Follow track going down and around to the right to bottom of crag.

Routes

Third Tier

Grass Roots 8m 20

Above "'Cauldron' on the 3rd tier. Has a Hard start depending on your height. Easy in the middle. Pumpy finish. NP, NP Belay.
Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Sept 1996
 

Itchy 8m 19

2 bolts and NP
 

Scratchy

8m 21
 

Krusty

8m 22 2 bolts and NP
 

Broken Bit

8m 19
 

Flameing Mo's 8m 19

2 bolts and NP, natural belay
 

Abes Oddesey 8m 19

2 bolts & NP
 

Second Tier

 

Trinity 8m 15

Directly above 'BR'. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. NP, DBB.
Mal Drummond, B. Jones July 1996
 

Cauldron 15m 20

Starts 10m right of 'Trinity'. Hard fingery start up to 2nd BR. Ease off after 2nd BR with nice moves to last BR on overhanging finish. The last move exposes you to 25m above the ground. 5 BR's, DBB.
Mal Drummond, B. Jones Oct 1996
 

First Tier

 

Bealzibbs Revenge 12m 19

Well north of 'Grease Mantle' where the cliff is doubled tiered. Up 2.5m blank wall past one bolt to crack in corner. Then layback up to small overhanging ledge. Fist jam behind ledge and traverse 2m, R, to end of ledge. Then up small blank black wall to DBB. 1 BR then NP. Beware loose rocks.
Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem May 1996
 

Guenevere * 13M 18

10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, slopper to pocket then pull up, more sloppers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff. An all natural 18.
OS FA Bruce Jones, M Drummond 10/9/96
 

Grease Mantle 18m 18

About 40m North of 'Alice's Crux' . An overlap crack with a tricky slightly overhanging finish. Chain belay. Great for offsets.
Mal Drummond, B. Jones Mar 1996
 

Merlins Platform 10m 18

15m right of 'BR'. Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. NP.
M. Drummond, S. Lyons Sept. 1996
 

Merlins Apprentice 10m 20

A few meters right of 'MP'. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the BR up. Mostly big slopers 1 BR & NP. NP belay.
Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Oct 1996
 

Whiskey Water 13m 21

1m right of Merlins platform. Up on to small ledge to place first SLCD. Up to slopper to clip first BR. Two crimps, feet up, (right foot as far to left as possible for max. height), right layoff, and balance up to pocket. Clip BR then up onto ledge and run out to top. Belay off Merlins platform (2BR', & SLCD or Hex for directional. Technical & sweet.)
Bruce Jones March 1997 & Mal drummond.
 

Holly Water 12m 16

OS, FA, NP Thin pro at start up to small tree.
Bruce Jones, Danny Rose, 10/6/1996
 

Cirrus 12m 15

Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure.
Bruce Jones
 

Seaena 20m 21+

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.
Bruce Jones, Andrew Juffermans 13/08/2005.
 

Hedron ** 21m 21

5m right of Seaena. Sweet climb on nice orange sandstone rock. Follow bolt line. NP as needed. Eye bolts at top for belay & descent.
Bruce Jones
 

Cant Find Fun Parlour 20m 17

7m right of Hedron. Start on ledge. Thin pro at start. Sling up top around large rock for belay on small ledge.
Danny Rose, Bruce Jones, 1996
 

Buccaneer Blood 18m 21 *-

3 bolt runners and 4 to 5 SLCDs. Start left under overhang and swing around onto face on great holds. Up left past first bolt onto large ledge ('dropledge'). Move to the left side of large ledge and then up past 2nd and 3rd bolts. Three moves here through these bolts to a natural placement is the crux and sweetesh part of the route - very nice moves. Up through pocket with natural placements to top out on next big ledge. Belay of bolt runner straight above and bolt runner 2 m to the right. see vid at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lfGK2GdLdw
Bruce Jones with Ian, Andrew, Marc, Murray, Brandon 29/01/2011.
 

Freestisla 18m 21 *

Same start as 'Bucanner Blood'. Sweet start with easy moves protected by a SLCD swinging out and around a overhanging section. Clip first bolt runner then up on big ledge to place some natural. Make you way onto next ledge to left of next bolt and clip. Crux move of this ledge and up to small pocket and next bolt runner. Strong moves to next ledge for a deserved rest and next clip. Start the next move and clip above small overhang and reach high to step up right onto awkward balancing ledge. Stand tall and clip last runner for an easy finish. Belay off bolt runners (spread out) and natural. See vid at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihO7F76HRv0
Andrew Juffermans, Bruce Jones, Marc Bailey 2007
 

Lose Control 21m 21

- All natural. Most of the route is probably 18ish but the crux section through the corner crack around half way is a testy 21. Start is approx 3m right of the corner crux section - rightish of the jutting overhang, Climb left until ledge below crux then up corner crack. Move right and follow natural pro line right then left to finish at tree. see vid at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9O9djr_9x8.
Marc Bailey lead Bruce Jones 2nd 2/02/2011.
 

Sif - Project 18m.

Up through broken ledges and right and follow crack line to first big ledge. Natural up under corner then traverse out right for 3m along overhang then pull up onto prominent ledge. Move to runner up and left and then come back right and up. Traverse out right to clip next runner on honey combed wall. Crux move to thin underneath ledge then left to gain a position to place a SLCD. (strenuous). Strong moves up and right to clip. Exit top and belay from chains or trees.
Project Bruce Jones
 

Alice's Crux 10m 20

First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd BR. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd BR to 3rd . 4th BR. in over hanging finish. 3rd BR not visible from bottom. DBB.
Mal Drummond, F. Schlechtriem Feb 1996
 
 
End of Routes
 
 

 

 

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