From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. This road takes you NW through Karangi, Coramba, and then Nana Glen. Turn right at Nana Glen past a primary School. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a railway bridge. Just before this bridge is a road on the left called Morrows rd. It runs parallel with the railway track. Follow Morrows Road for a few kilometers where it forks. Take the right across the railway line. The road becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd. Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood forest Road until you reach the communications Tower. Go behind the tower and follow the track to its end. Face the cliff line. Walk right, down towards creek (usually very little water in creek). Don't cross creek but vere left towards the cliff edge. Scramble down where creek cuts through cliff or abseil over. Face cliff. Climbs are to you right with Chalk Eye being around 30m away.
Chalk Eye 13, 10m
This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, or possibly a little warm up climb. It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge
Bruce Jones March 2001
Salt ** Grade 17, 35m - 21/04/01
Veer left for 3m from start, 2NP one near start for belayer/2nd. Slight run out after 2nd pro. Straight up for next bit, 2 BR's, then a NP. Veer left 1.5m along a ledge to next BR, the NP belay. Easy top pitch with a couple of NP. Go around to the right of small tree near top. If doing in one pitch watch for rope line.
Bruce Jones 21/04/2002
Chili Sauce Grade 19, 20m
Start as for Salt. Climb is between Salt and Pepper. Natural up to first bolt runner (3m) on face next to honey comb section. Climbs tends to the left. Up onto sloppy ledge. Run out to next bolt runner or find a natural. This bit can be a little tricky if you are not feeling confident. Clip next bolt and up over small overhang. Another bolt on next small overhang. Up and on top of this to balance up a face, BR on face. Up and onto large ledge. NP on ledge then out to the left to go to the chain. More NP available if needed. Nice climb well worth the effort.
Bruce Jones & Ian Arthur 11/01/2003
Sequential mood 25m 17
Start on face right of pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Best with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Traverse across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Your options now are, (1) set up a Natural belay on ledge (2) Continue up through chossy top pitch (it is bolted) or (3) Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge.
Bruce Jones, Ian Arthur 31/08/2005.
Pepper Grade 21, 35m - 25/05/01
Suggested to do in two pitches. Belay at large ledge. If climbing as single route then use a long sling from crack at belay ledge to maintain rope direction Start as for salt. Veer right for 2m to top of honeycomb. Up through V shape to the left. Follow BR line to belay ledge. 4BR's, 2 NP to belay ledge. (The next pitch is a little chossey and dirty. Climb can be finished at this ledge, by going to the chain on Chilli Sauce to the left). Veer right from here. NP then BR, come back left and follow a line to exit left of tree. There is 2 BR's to assist in the top belay. Look for them; spread a little, one around to the right, the other a bit left.
Bruce Jones 25/05/01
Cinders Grade 21, 20m March 2002
Nice balanced start with a mantle on one arm (if you want to do it that way). Crux move half way up with an undercliing using high feet. (Probably easier if you are tall). Some surprisingly nice holds on this interesting route. Chain for belay.
Bruce Jones March 2002
Toe Whacker 13m 16
NP route. Up the open book cnr. crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.
Bruce Jones & Peter Locke march 2002
Thunder ** 13m 17
Go a little left for an easier start. Probably more in keeping with the overall grade. Clip first bolt then NP to top. Same top section as TW. Sweet hand Jam just above 2nd pro. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.
Bruce Jones march 2002
Pink Chicks 15m 19
An all-natural crack route a few meters left of Flamingo Crack. Move to top of crack then mosey left following NP line to finish at a chain belay. A little strength zapping but nice.
Bruce Jones, Ian Arthur 14/09/2005.
Flemingo Crack 13m 18
Open book corner crack to the far right of the crag. Before the crag section breaks up Follow crack line to chain on left. Easier than it looks. NP. Belay off chain or natural.
Bruce Jones OS 18/09/2002
End of Routes