Crag Information: - download pdf of Mals Rock

General

History

The Water Towers area is a rock separated from the headland below the water reservoir at Sawtell. Mal Drummond and Frank Schlechtriem needed a place close to home to climb so they developed these routes. The rock is a little sharp on the hands and can be brittle in places. The site has been left as a tope rope area although there is the possibility for some natural leads. The climbs have been named even though they have not been led. Most of the climbs would need BR's and the developers do not wish to deface the area.

Routes

Spinal Tap 5m 21

Center of east face. Strenuous all the way

 

Shredder 8m 19

North face, Start 1m in from NE arete. Start is overhanging slightly then move 1.5ms to right and straight up. Last 2m are small crimpers.

 

Ripped 8m 23

This climb is 'Shredder' direct. First 4m is very strenuous and very hard on the finger tips. Finish as for 'Shredder'.

 

Nemesis 7m 22

West face, 1m left of SW arete. Technical on small crimpers. At the top traverse to left and mantle over the overhanging rock.

 

Double Trouble 5m 17

South face, 1.5m to right of SW arete. Start is slightly overhanging up to first ledge. Then on to second ledge and on to top.

 

Fine Young Crack 6m 19

3m right of 'Double Trouble' Follow the thin small crack to top. Not easy.

 

Backbone 8m 20

North East arete. Hard start then easier to top.

 

Pointless 5m 17

South East arete. A knife edge arete with some fine moves.

 

Confusion 7m 15

Directly behind 'Fine Young Crack'. A mainline climb with lots of useless holds, hence the confusion.

 

End of Routes
 
 

 

 

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