Crag Information: - download pdf of never never

General

Never Never Land - Access to Never Never Land is a little tricky. Firstly use access route as if you were heading to Kilowatts but about 200m past the communications tower turn left (south) down side track. Park at end (be careful near end unless you have 4WD), then walk approx 80m west following lightly used track until you find rock carne. Head down from here being very careful, once on next ledge down head west again for about 30m until you come across rarely running waterfall. Very very carefully make way down to edge of cliff to chains (great view of many of the climbs, the arête you can see is Sky's The Limit & the corner to the right of that is Hydra). Rap in, don't go to very bottom, stop at ledge 10m before bottom, you will need two 50m ropes. There is another rap in spot if waterfall is running or you only have one rope, walk past rarely running waterfall approx 30m until you come to cable, hook onto this and follow it for about 8m until you come to some chains (this is top of 2nd pitch of Battle of Evermore) rap down to next set of chains, then down to bottom, 60m rope needed. Walk out west along base of cliff, follow carnes around then back up to road near Kilowatts.

Routes

Lost Boys Hideout Wall

 

Bush Wacker 35m 17

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.
Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey 29/8/04

 

Battle of Evermore 70m 20

Start approx 8m left of Sublimation. 1st pitch 30m – 20. Start in open book corner. Stay on left side of crack. Thru slightly overhung section trending left to chains. All natural. 2nd pitch 20m – 20. Straight up past 2 BR & cams to chains. 3rd pitch 20m – 17. Straight up past 4 BR & cams to chains.
Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt , Peter Higgs 27/3/05

 

Angels Of Babylon 25m 21

Start as for Battle of Evermore but at 4m veer right up over bulge with BR then follow arête to chains. BR and cams.
Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey

 

Acts Of Sublimation 27m 22

Open book corner approx 8m left of The Antichrist. Up open book corner to roof, traverse right 3m past 2 BR then straight up wall to ring bolts. 5 BR & small to medium cams. Marc Bailey Terry Bernutt 20/3/05

 

‘Project' Drop Zone 45m ?

Bruce Jones, Danny Rosewood 1997

 

‘Project' – The Hulk 30m ?

Thin crack 3m left of the start of The Antichrist
Terry Bernutt

 

The Antichrist 30m 22

Up obvious corner crack to small roof at 5m, exit roof left. Straight up to roof with 2 FH then up wall to Lost Boys Hideout. Cams, 5 BR, 2 FH, DBB.
Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs 2002

 

Juicy 30m 18

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.
Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt 2002.

 

Prince Planet 35m 18 A0

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.
Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs 2002.

 

Astro Boy 35m 24

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts. Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey 2003

 

Boulder S

25m 20 Start 1m right of Astro Boy. Up wall to slabby section then climb over large boulder & thru juggy roof to chains. A few small to med cams & BRs. Marc Bailey, Bruce Jones

 

Dead Mans Cave Wall

 

Sky's The Limit 50m 23

Arête 5m right of Astro Boy 2m left of Hydra the start of Dead Man's Cave wall. Crux is the first 3m of the climb. Varied climbing up arête, start on right side then switch to left up small slab then back right follow BRs. Belay at 35m at chains to help avoid rope drag then up wall to hanging chain belay. 12 BR, 4 or 5 cams
Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt 29/8/04

 

Hydra 30m 19

Start 2m right of Sky's the Limit at left end of Dead Man's Cave Wall up very obvious corner 3BRs + natural pro to chain belay.
Marc Bailey, Terry Bernutt 2002

 

Hydras Head 20m 19

Continuation of Hydra. At top of Hydra traverse left past bolts at Sky's the Limit then veer right thru weakness then back left to hanging chain belay at Sky's The Limit. A little contrived. BR & natural.
Joe Truban, Marc Bailey 2003

 

The Phantom 25m 20

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America . 6 BRs & cams
Terry Bernutt , Marc bailey 2005

 

Captain America 25m 20

Start 7m right of Hydra. Up wall past 2 BRs then up over bulge 2 BRs (stay on left side of these bolts) veering slightly left onto ledge reach up and place a good small cam before moving straight up the wall to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.
Terry Bernutt , Marc Bailey, Peter Higgs 2002

 

The Shadow 25m 21

Start as for Captain America but climb on the right of the 3rd & 4th BRs. Then straight up wall past 2 BRs to finish at the chains in Dead Man's Cave. BRs & cams.
Peter Higgs, Brice Milne, Terry Bernutt 2003

 

Tinker Bell 25m 17

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.
Peter Higgs, Terry Bernutt 2002

 

Tinker Bell Direct 25m 19

As for Tinker Bell but half way up flake move left and straight up past one BR to then rejoin the top of original climb.
Peter Higgs

 

Angelina Jolie's Jublies 25m 20

Start as for Tinker Bell (this is left of actual climb but this way you avoid a big loose block) climb easily to ledge move right, clip bolt & then straight up to Dead Man's Cave. DBB. Natural pro & BR.
Brice Milne, Marc Bailey 2003.

 

Strong Like Bull ‘Project'

Flake left of Anelina Jolie's Jublies

 

Peter Higgs

Mighty Mouse 25m 18
Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts.
Terry Bernutt

 

Feed The Rat

Open Project 50m Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. All bolted ready to climb, at least a 25 to 26. Awesome climb. Bolts & chains Josef Truban

 

End of Routes

Happenings: