Crag Information: - download pdf of Wild Dog
Shiloh Rose was out bush walking and told me of a spot he had seen which had some good cliffs. I went and had a look, scouted most of the crags in the area and started putting up some climbs at a place I called ‘Wild Dog Wall’. At the time I was looking for places I could use Natural Protection on and this seemed pretty good. Later came 'Music Hall', 'Banana Wall', and 'Fort Knox'.
New access from the bottom. Total distance from Glenreagh (start) to bottom of Fort Knox (near Wild Dog) is 9.5km. For GPS info the Elevation is 124m at S 30 02 029 E 153 02 231. From Glenreagh follow Sherwood Creek RD which crosses the river. Travel for 0.8 km to Railway line. Turn left after crossing railway line and follow road running parallel with the railway line before veering right into the scrub. The road starts off tar then to a windy dirt road. At 5km from the start you will cross a bridge over 'Middle Creek'. At 8km you will hit tar again in a lower section of the road. This is a small section of tar before it changes to dirt again. Turn right here, off this tarred bit, down Athol Glen Rd. There is a sawmill over to the right about 100m in from the road. At 9.1 km from the start, running off Athol Glen Rd , a gravelly road veers off and upish to the right (no gates). The turn off is distinctive in that it veers right rather than a right turn. It takes you to a sand mining plant. Finish here at 9.5km from Start. You can park here if you wish, and probably best, but you can drive across the other side of the sand pit (30m). Turn left on the other side and follow track for 50m or so. If you keep following this track witout turning off as you would for Fort knox you will come to a dry creek. Cross the creek and on for another 30meters then head upwards and leftish. A 15min scablle up will get you to Wild Dog wall. Alterntively go up to fortt knox then turn left and walk along baseof crag line to creek. Cross creek and walk on top of crag line for 80 paces. Wild Dog Wall climbs are pretty well directly below, two tiers down. You can wander down here to Wild Dog Wall. Head slightly left as you go down two tiers. When at the bottom of the second tier, face the cliff, go left along base of cliff line until you come to the climbs
Access from the top - May be blocked in the future.
Prefered is the bottom access. General - From Coffs Harbour go out along Coramba Road to Nana Glen. This road takes you NW through Karangi, Coramba, and then Nana Glen. Turn right at Nana Glen past a primary School. Continue on across a bridge until you come to a railway bridge. Just before this bridge is a road on the left called Morrows rd. It runs parallel with the railway track. Follow Morrows Road for a few kilometers where it forks. Take the right across the railway line. The road becomes Waihou Rd. Keep going until you reach Sherwood Forest Rd. Turn a sharp left onto Sherwood Forest Road. Continue along Sherwood Forest Road until you reach Emu Trl (conglomerate trl) on your left. Turn into Emu Trl (conglomerate trl) and travel for approx. 1.5 km to the junction of Get Lost Trl and Brush Trl. Veer right down Get Lost Trl for approx. 0.5 km to its end (Car park area). Walk left along top of crag for around 80 paces. To go to fort Knox continue along top of crag to creek. Cross creek to orange wall.
Moon Shadow *** 20M 21
Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.
Bruce Jones - FTRA 22/5/96, FFA 12/10/96
Adder 20M 19
5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.
Bruce Jones - FFA 5/7/96
Sting 15M 23
1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.
Bruce Jones - 28/6/96
Monkey Boots 19M 18
The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay
Bruce Jones - FFA 4/11/96
Stoned 15M 16
The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.
Bruce Jones OS July 96
End of Routes