Crag Information: - download pdf of Wonderlands

General


Wonderland was founded on the 2nd may of 1991, by Gavin Dean, Keith Bennett and John Kennedy from the forestry commission. The potential for rock climbing was soon realised, after inspecting the 1 km multi-tiered cliff line. Many superb onsite cracks were done by Gavin Dean, Keith Bennett, Allan Stevens, Dick Curtis and Ed Sharp. These were done in the months of June and July. Many fine wall routes were also bolted in this period.
 
From Glenreagh take the Upper Corindi Road, for approx. 20 kms until you reach Plum Pudding Road. Turn right here and follow this road for approx., 5kms's taking the second track on your right, Free Grass Road. Follow this rd and take the next right, called Lionel Loop Trail, and follow to the end. There is two or three other alternative routes to this area. Refer to a local area map. Facing west, walk right, down a prominent trail for about 600 to 700 meters. Descend a five-foot gully. Climbs in this guide are all marked form left to right facing the cliff line.

Routes

The Change Room

White Chump 8m 25

The first line of bolts you come to, stick clip the first bolt. Starts at the flake in the back of the roof.
G. Low
 

Eat this G-Man 8m 26

Line of bolts left of WC, starts with a big move
 

Eat this White Chump 8m 25

This is a link up, from the 2nd clip on the G-Man traverse right into WC and up from the third bolt
Ben Christian
 

Main Cliff

The routes are described from left to right as you face the cliff. The first route at the left-hand end is Stranger In A Strange Land 18. Most climbs are, or can be, very well protected with natural protection, bolts or both.

 

Stranger In A Strange Land 18

Start the first climb of the cliff, up past 2 bolts to the top
W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 18 June 1993
 

Stranger Than Fiction 18

Start right of STRANGER IN A STRANGE LAND. Up past 2 bolts.
W. Gibbs, W. Anderson, G. Dean, 18 June 1993
 

Subliminal Erotica 10m 23

10m right of the gully. A very steep and fine little wall. 2 bolts and a Friend. Tree to belay.
G. Dean, 20 July 1993
 

Hope And Glory *** 15m 18

Climb wall 2m left of BOUNTY'S REVENGE. 2 bolts, wires, #2.5 Friend. Tree anchor
K. Bennett, G. Dean, 23 June 1991
 

Bounty's Revenge ** 15m 20

Start 2m right of HOPE AND GLORY. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. Crux between first and second bolt #2.5 Friend and #3 Friend. Tree anchor
G. Dean, K. Bennett, 11 June 1991
 

Yellow Brick Road 6m 4

Climb up crack to cave. A short worthless climb
K. Bennett, solo 18 June 1991.
 

Moist Crack 6m 4

Up crack to cave. Another worthless climb.
G. Dean, solo 18 June 1991.
 

Blind Faith *** 20m 19

Start 1m right of YELLOW BRICK ROAD. Up wall through roof. 4 bolts. Tree anchor.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 23 June 1991.
 

Blind Fury *** 20m 18

Start 1m of BLIND FAITH. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a #0 Friend. Exit left under large roof.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 18 June 1993
 

Mind Warp *** 15m 22

Start 5 to 6m right of BLIND FAITH on a vertical orange wall under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.
G. Dean, W. Anderson, 10 October 1993
 

Wet Dreams *** 10m 21

Start as for MIND WARP and head left. Up crack and head to right, clip bolt and past one more bolt (crux). Some Friends and wires can be used after the last bolt if you think it is necessary, then on to chain.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 5 December 1993.
 

Warped Minds 15m 20

As for Mind Warp. At 2nd BB traverse L to meet MW at chains.
MK 98
 

Tomorrow Boy 10m 25

Start is the prominent arete with fixed hangers 10m right of MW, up left side of the arete to lower off at ledge.
Ben Christian
 

On a Crimp and a Prayer 15m 25

Start as for TB, from the fourth bolt step around to the right side of arete, up face past a carrot bolt and friend placement to lower off.
B. Christian
 

Charred Dog * 30m 12

Start on right-hand side of 2 corners below a ledge with large tree. Follow corner crack to exit left on small ledge, up blocks to large ledge. 2. From left-hand end of large ledge, straight up to grass. Traverse right, follow final route. Alternative finish, straight from large tree. Watch out for seesaw rock!
E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 23 June 1991.
 

Rabid Dog 20m 18

Start 4m left of CANINE CONFLAGRATION, up left hand crack, just left of dead tree, up crack then head left into cave, then head right and up to tree. Abseil here. All natural protection.
Stephens, G. Dean, 23 December 1993.
 

Stairway To Heaven *** 25m 24

Start 5m left of HOT BLOODED. Climb up past two BR's, this section is the crux. Very sustained. Once you pass this section it eases off past one more bolt and a #1 Friend, chain belay.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 31 June 1993.
 

Hot Blooded *** 25m 22

Start is right around the corner and up to top of hill from CANINE CONFLAGRATION. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts, a #0 Friend to a chain belay.
G. Dean, K. Bennett, 25 June 1991
 

Polly Pussy Arms 8m 26

The hanging black arete 10m around to the left of WH. Up past bolts and top out.
B Christian
 

Glycerine 8m 25

The undercut grey wall right of PPA, go around roof up wall and top out.
G Low
 

Well Hung 30m 21

Start 1m left of CANINE CONFLAGRATION, up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. Excellent climbing on good rock. 3 bolt brackets and #2.5 Friend under roof. Double bolt belay at top.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 11 January 1992.
 

Canine Conflagration *** 19

Start is 1m roof leading to a flack. Scramble up block, move right under roof, then up flake (crux) and onto ledge. 2. From right end of ledge, follow arete to the top.
E. Sharp, B. Birchall, 23 June 1992.
 

Barn Storming 8m 10

Start is right of HOT BLOODED. Climb arete.
G. Dean, solo 18 June 1991.
 

Walking Antiques 8m 11

Start is 2m right of BARN STORMING. 3 bolts, a great little beginner's route.
K. Bennett, originally done solo 18 June 1991.
 

Eat The Meat 10m 16

Start 1m left of DON'T CHEW THE FAT. Climb arete wall past 2 bolts, tree belay and 2 x #1.5 Friends.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 3 August 1993.
 

Don't Chew The Fat 6m 19

A fine little wall route. Start 3m right of WALKING ANTIQUES. 2 bolts and a small Friend before the first bolt. Belay at tree and 2x #1.5 Friends.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 24 September 1992.
 

Grab The Gristle *** 10m 19

This climb starts on the next tier down, directly below DON'T CHEW THE FAT. A great little orange slab which then leads into a fantastic 8 foot roof. 2 bolts on the slab and 2 bolts in the roof. 2 bolt belay.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 16 June 1993.
 

Bitter Fingers 10m 20

Start is 2m right of DON'T CHEW THE FAT. Up the crack and move left at top to exit.
R. Curtis, E. Sharp, 12 July 1991.
 

The Dodgy Brothers 10m 17

Through the breaks to the cave.
M Kelly
 

Tragically Sick 15m 18

Start 5m left of EXTERMINATOR. Up wall past 1 bolt. Finishes as for EXTERMINATOR.
G. Dean, K. Harry, 30 November 1993.
 

Exterminator ** 15m 17

Start 3m left of SEALED WITH GLASCOW KISS. Up wall past some bolts. Head up past a slight overhang and another bolt. Friend belay.
G. Binnett, G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 10 October 1993.
 

Sealed With A Glascow Kiss 15m 18

Start 3m left of BASIC INSTINCT. Climb up wall, all natural protection. Very small Friends and TCU's.
E. Sharp, A. Stephens, 10 June 1993.
 

Larry the Leisurely lounge Lizard 15m 18

Follow SGK for 5m then traverse right into BI.
E Houlton, M Kelly 97
 

Basic Instinct *** 25m 18

A great wall route, well worth the time and effort. Superb moves on great rock. 3 bolt brackets and a range of small Friends.
G. Dean, 5 August 1992.
 

Pink Slip 18m 19

Start 8m left of BASIC INSTINCT. Make one move up left into crack, up to diagonal section. Follow this nearly to the top, then up to tree (abseil point).
R. Curtis, 12 July 1991.
 

Dick Dastardly *** 15m 19

Start 3m left of BARTMAN. Climb thin flake to ledge, then up wall. 1 bolt and small Friends. Belay #1.5 Friend and tree.
G. Dean, K. Bennett, W. Anderson, 6 April 1992.
 

Bartman ** 15m 17

Start 1m left of KING ARTHUR. Climb crack left of KING ARTHUR. #1 to #4 Friends, then step left to chain.
G. Dean, Brett ?, 3 December 1991.
 

King Arthur ** 15m 16

Climb crack to chain. Large hexes and Friends.
G. Dean, K. Bennett, 6 June 1991.
 

Fast Day In Paradise 10m 25

The left, hard line of bolts, top out or lower of last bolt.
A. Audetat
 

The Mission 10m 26

Right line of bolts and top out.
A Audetat
 

Silk 'N' Steel *** 20m 20 - 21

A classic. Start at large corner with huge roof 6m left of MISERY. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top.
R. Curtis, B. Birchall, 11 July 1991.
 

Misery *** 20m 23

Start 1m left of DICKY KNEE. Climb flake and onwards to crack, vere left and up. 3 bolts and a rack of Friends.
R. Curtis, B. Birchall, 11 July 1991.
 

Dicky Knee * 30m 18

Start 1m right of MISERY. Up short wall, 2 bolt brackets, then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish. Rack of wires and Friends, 2 bolt belay.
A. Stephens, G. Dean, 17 December 1991.
 

Fat Rich Constables ** 16m 19

Start is as for PUNTERS AND COLLECTORS. Up the wall. #3 Friend and 3 bolts.
A. Stephens, G. Dean, 1 July 1991. (Named after the great animal
 

Punters And Collectors 12m 14

Start 2m left of DEAD POETS. Climb crack lay-backing all the way. Large Friends.
A. Stephens, P. Horn (Mungrel), J. Lewis, l. dickson, 23 June 1991.
 

Dead Poets ** 15m 17

Climb wall left of JESTER. 1 bolt, #1, #2, #2.5 Friends. Tree anchor.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 1 July 1991.
 

Jester 15m 10

Start 1m right of DEAD POETS. Up crack to top. Large Friends. Tree belay.
K. Bennett, G. Dean, 6 June 1991.
 

Zarzoff * 10m 21

An arete/wall 10m right of JESTER. 3 bolts and a tree belay (#2.5 Friend fits in the first pocket). Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers - Rooti, Kikki, Likki, Shitti. Hand up past the pockets and a mantle to the finish. Note; if you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.
A. Stephens, G. Dean, 20 July 1991.
 

Adrenalin Overdrive 19

Start 5m right of ZARZOFF. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.
R. Curtis, B. Birchall, 11 July 1991.
 

Burke's Backyard 20m 18

Start right of ZARZOFF. Climb overhanging crack (the left one). Full rack. Keep climbing until small tree belay.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 28 May 1992.
 

Shit Chick 15m 28

No. 2 SLCD & bolts.
E. Houlton
 

Working The Dog 12m 17

First climb at base of walk out gully. Don't use block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb arete past 2 bolts and maybe some small wires up top. Belay as for WHIPPING BOY. #1 and #2 Friends (2 x #2 Friends).
G. Gilchrist, G. Dean, 26 June 1993.
 

Whip It Good 12m 15

Start 1m right of WORKING THE DOG. 2 bolts, belay as for WHIPPING BOY.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 26 May 1993.
 

Whipping Boy *** 12m 19

Start left of DINO'S DILEMMA, approximately 10m. A blocky wall with ledges. 2 bolts and a set of wires. Friends required for belay. Up corner to ledge, clip bolt then mantle onto ledge. Finally hand out and clip the next bolt then power up on big holds.
A. Stephens, G. Dean, 13 July 1992.
 

Alice In Wonderland 20m 14

A great little number. A couple of bolts and Friends. Well worth the time and effort. Start just right of the WHIPPING BOY, up easy rock to corner, then head left.
G. Dean, K. Harry, 24 September 1992.
 

Dino's Dilemma *** 15m 18

Climb crack to tree. The finest crack route on cliff. Take hexes and small to large Friends.
G. Dean, K. Bennett, 6 June 1991.
 

Indecent Proposal ** 15m 24

Start 2m left DINO'S DILEMMA. Up arete past 3 bolts, crux is going past the third bolt. 2 bolt belay.
G. Dean, 15 June 1993.
 

Sibling Rivalry *** 15m 23

A fantastic route and "classic" climb. Climbing below the crux is very enjoyable. The crux starts at the third bolt. Start 3m right of DINO'S DILEMMA. Up wall past 3 bolts. 2 bolt belay
. G. Dean, A. Stephens, 9 January 1993.
 

Empty Pockets *** 10m 20

Start 2m right of SIBLING RIVALRY. Climb through roof, past some empty pockets and onto top. 3 bolts.
G. Dean, A. Stephens, 12 July 1991.
 

Knuckle Sandwich 10m 15

Start 3m right of EMPTY POCKETS. Climb off-width by lay backing and wall climbing. 2 x #4 Friends.
Dick and party, 12 July 1991.
 

Untitled 10m 13

Start 1m left of KNUCKLE SANDWICH. Jam to cave exit right. Small Friends.
Dick and party, 12 July 1991.
 

Dead Heart ** 15m 20

Climb up zigzag crack to under large boulder, exit right. This route was originally done with all natural protection, a bolt was later added because of poor protection near the top. Take small wires and Friends on bolt runner. 2 bolt belay.
G. Dean, K. Bennett, 23 June 1991. The bolt was added on the 7 January 1993.
 

Confessions Of A Window Cleaner ** 10m 19

Start 10m right of DEAD HEART. The last wall route on the cliff at this stage. Climb wall arete very sustained, climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 10 June 1993.
 

Getting Up

16 Start 1m right of CONFESSIONS OF A WINDOW CLEANER. Up crack to top.
R. Curtis, B. Birchall, 12 July 1991.
 

THE TOP TIER

The top tier is situated directly above EXTERMINATOR. Climb EXTERMINATOR then climb a 20m pitch, about a grade 12 depending on where you start. To access from top, walk down the main track from the top for about 30m then head towards the cliff down a small gully, then head left facing the main cliff down below. The climbs are described from left to right facing the cliff.
 

Time Waster 10m 16

Start the first grovel on the cliff. Up crack, through dirt to top. A great climb if your sick in the head. Done on site by Gavin Dean and Geoff Gilchrist.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, 27 September 1993.
 

Twister 10m 16

Start 2m right of BLUE SKY MINING. Climb up crack.
This climb was done on site by Geoff Gilchrist, a fine effort. G. Gilchrist, G. Binnett, 19 November.
 

Blue Sky Mining 10m 20

Start 2m right of TWISTER. Up overhanging wall, a definite pump. Climb up past a fixed bracket clip and up past some more silver stick, out through roof past a Friend break and two new arms!!
G. Gilchrist, G. Binnett, 19 November 1993.
 

Fart Arse 10m 16

Start 8m right of BLUE SKY MINING. Up onto ledge, climb up crack past 1 bolt then up to top.
G. Dean, G. Gilchrist, g. Binnett.
 
End of Routes
 
 

 

 

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